As seen in: The Nomadic Nibbler, Oakland Press, May 13, 2005

THE RIB RACK
Whoa, baby – the baby backs aren't the only attraction at Waterford spot

One recent sunny evening, we climbed into the pickup and headed out to sink our teeth into some juicy ribs at the Rib Rack, a restaurant located in a plaza on Dixie Highway. Judging from the professional look of the signage and staff, we thought it might be a franchise, but we learned that, for now, Waterford Township is its sole location.

The interior is spartan, but you're not here for the decor. The walls are decorated with old black-and-white photos showing scenes from Waterford Township's history and one wall holds jerseys from four area high schools – Our Lady of the Lakes, Mott, Kettering and Clarkston.

Diners sit on pine picnic tables. While we sat at one and chatted, I noticed bottles of hot sauce and ketchup – no barbecue sauce –on the tables. Rock music played overhead and a TV hung in one corner, angled so carryout customers can catch the game while they wait for their orders. People Dining solo can sit on high stools near the front window and look outside. There isn't much of a view, just the big plaza parking lot.

We remarked the restaurant seemed to be doing well, based on the steady stream of customers rolling in on a weeknight. Here, customers place orders at a counter and a waitperson delivers the food on a tray. I chose JT's combo ($7.95), which includes about three ribs and a broasted chicken breast, with quartered, roasted potatoes and a roll. I opted for a side of green beans for an extra $1.59.

My companion ordered the baby back rib dinner ($12.95), which came with a generous nine-rib slab with choice of potato (he selected mashed) and he asked for coleslaw for an additional $1.59. Both dinners included a soft drink.

It took about 10 minutes to get our food. I dug into the chicken first. The breast was crispy on the outside, and meat inside was tender and moist. As at many fast-food spots, meals are served with plastic utensils on hard cardboard plates. But ah, the ribs. The meat fell off the bones and was infused with a luscious, sweet, smokey flavor.

I fretted that the small side of green beans would fall short of my expectations, but they were firm, seasoned and not overcooked. And the small dish of coleslaw, made fresh each day, was a fine accompaniment – crunchy and cold.

One of the restaurant's owners, Mike Owens, says getting the ribs to a table is a four- or five-step process. "We season, bake, refrigerate and then charbroiled to order," he explains. "The final product takes about six hours."

Don't pass up the Rack Potatoes – they're coated with a seasoned butter sauce and then broasted. The result is a crisp skin and meaty interior, not mushy as many potatoes can be. However, the mashed potatoes, my companion said, reminded him of those served at other fast-food places, a la KFC.

With all the combinations offered, the menu can be a bit overwhelming, but it's trying to appeal to a broad range of appetites. For example, the Sticky Slab ($21.95) feeds two adults with a full rack of ribs, choice of medium potato, large coleslaw and four rolls. For someone just slightly hungry, there are items such as cheese sticks (five for $3.25).

The restaurant also serves seafood, including lake perch (from $5.49-$8.49), breaded fantail shrimp ($5.55-$7.99) and even breaded smelt ($3.99-$4.99). A soup of the day is available, depending on the season, for $2.10 for a cup and $4.05 for a bowl.

The owners – Owens and partner Mark Tomas, both in their 30's – were fraternity brothers at Central Michigan University, and enjoyed barbecuing on their front porch. They've maintained their friendship through the years and their story appears on the label of the barbecue sauce (a pint is $4.95) they now sell in the restaurant.

Owens boasts many years' experience managing restaurants, and Tomas has a background in finance. They combined talents to open the Rib Rack in May 2004. The Waterford location is their first venture, but Owens says they plan on opening another Rib Rack in Oakland county this year.

Though we urged them to open one closer to home, they have other communities in mind. That only means we'll have to make the drive up to Dixie Highway again, because we are definitely new fans of those ribs.

To prevent restaurants from giving special service, The Oakland Press dining reviewer is anonymous. Each review is generally based on a single visit.

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